Bhagwati Temple is located at Chengannur, a village situated 40 km away from the town of Kottayam in Kerala The remarkable aspect of the Bhagwati Temple at Chengannur is that the phenomenon of the goddess getting her periods still continues though the deity is cast in the five metals(panchaloha).
The temple therefore follows an unique ritual where the chief priest or his assistant (kizhusanti) on opening the Srikoil early morning removes the nirmalyam (previous day's decoration of the deity) and hands it over to the Varrier attendant along with the white udayada (petticoat) without looking at it. The Varrier examines the dress closely and if there are signs of bleeding sends it to Thazhamon Matham, the traditional residence of the temple Tantri.
There the lady of the house scrutinises the cloth again and confirms the menses.The udayada, after the occurrence of the menses is available for sale to the public. Though the rate fixed by the Devaswom is only Rs. 10/- due to its being a rarity it is grabbed by devotees by paying hundreds of rupees who book it well in advance.
The sanctum is kept closed for three days when the Goddess gets her menses. During this period a small vigraha is installed in a secluded room on the north-west corner of the nalambalam and pujas are conducted there. On the fourth day, the bathing coremony-Triputtu arattu-is conducted by taking the, image in procession on a female Elephant to the nearby Pampa river. Innumerable devotionally women with thalapoli (holding lamps), accompany this. On return, Lord Shiva mounted on an elephant awaits of his consort and receives her ceremoniously. The deities then enter their respective sanctums and the worship for the Goddess is resumed. The
Temple Structure . The temple sprawling on a six-acre area with three tiered eastern gopuram is a massive one by Kerala standards, comparable to big temples of Taliparamba, Vaikom, Trichur As one enters the temple through this gateway there is first the anakottil (literally shed for elephants) which is a modern structure. Beyond this is the unfinished kuttambalam. In front of this is the gold-covered flagstaff. Then Balikalpura which leads to the big mukhamandapam beyond which is the srikoil.
The sanctum The image of Shiva is fully visible only if one stands between the sanctum and the mandapam, The srikoil is circular in shape like Vaikom and Ettumanur but much bigger in shape. The roof covered with copper plates is enormous and slopes steeply downwards.
Lord Maha Deva is consecrated facing east and the Goddess Bhagawathy is facing west in this temple. The Bhagawati, is also housed in. the same srikol but facing west. There is a passage inside connecting both the deities. The mandapam in front of her shrine is comparatively small. So also other structures like anakottil and gopuram. The outer wall of the srikoil and the pillars and ceiling of the eastern mandapam have fine wood carvings representing scenes from the Puranas.
They speak of the artistic skill of the carpenters of those times, for which Chengannur and nearby Thiruvalla were famous. The image of Shiva which is self-born is not chiseled into any shape. The deity is said to represent the forlorn Shiva after his separation from his consort, Sati, after she cast off her body. It is, however, adorned with a gold cover with the image of an attractive Ardhanariswar- half- man and half-woman - of about 3 feet height.
The idol of Bhagawati was originally in stone. Since this was damaged in a fire it was replaced by one made of panchaloha. The Devi has two hands with varada (grant of desires) and abhaya (freedom from fear) postures. She is satodari (of slender waist), komalangi (delicate-limbed) and abhushita (adorned with every ornament). With a profusion of brass lamps in front, the image glitters gold splendour. Gazing at her, whose eyes compassion, one indeed experiences exuberant scondental bliss.
There are upa devatas too in the temple-Ganesa to the right of Siva and Chandoesan, one of Siva's servants to the north-west. Outside the temple there is a Sasta shrine on the south-west corner, to its north Neelagriva